Nanjing Yunjin develops innovatively while inheriting
“When buying Hanfu, I pay attention to the fabrics and patterns of the clothing, and I also pay special attention to the stories behind the Hanfu.” “Gorgeous Hanfu means high-level weaving skills.” “The ceiling of the Hanfu fabric industry ‘It has to be Nanjing Yunjin.”… In various types of Hanfu interest groups, Hanfu enthusiasts talk endlessly about their shopping experiences, and from time to time share the Hanfu activities they are interested in and invite friends to go with them.
Among them, the 2nd China Arts and Crafts Expo to be held in Nanjing, Jiangsu Province on August 18 has attracted the attention of many Hanfu enthusiasts, and they have expressed that they will go together to check in. Here, they are about to embark on a journey of collision between Hanfu and industrial arts – close contact with Chinese arts and crafts masters to learn about the past and present life of arts and crafts works, take photos with arts and crafts works, and wander in the ocean of quintessence of Chinese art.
If the integration of Hanfu and natural beauty is full of poetry and painting, then the integration of Hanfu and traditional arts and crafts has a unique oriental charm. As Chinese people pay more and more attention to traditional culture, the popularity of Hanfu is also increasing. Tianyancha data shows that as of now, there are more than 3,400 companies in my country whose names include “Hanfu, Han Dynasty clothing, Han Dynasty clothing, Han clothing crown”, or whose business scope or product services include “Hanfu, Chinese clothing, Han clothing, Han Dynasty clothing, Han Dynasty clothing” ” Hanfu-related enterprises whose status is active, existing, moving in, or moving out. Among them, individual industrial and commercial households account for 78%, limited liability companies account for 18%, and Hanfu enterprises established within 5 years account for nearly 80%. The number of new Hanfu-related companies in 2021 will be more than 770, with the annual registration growth rate being 17.2%. From niche to highly sought after, from focusing on style to focusing on culture and skills, today, Hanfu is not only a kind of clothing, but also a symbol and carrier of China’s excellent traditional culture, demonstrating the inheritance, innovation and development of my country’s brocade weaving skills.
At this expo, many Nanjing Yunjin brocade works will be unveiled. What is the charm of Yunjin, which has been highly praised by Hanfu enthusiasts? Recently, the reporter interviewed Jin Wen, a researcher-level senior arts and crafts artist and the representative inheritor of the 5th Chinese Arts and Crafts Master, the national intangible cultural heritage representative project “Nanjing Yunjin Wood Machine Weaving Technique”, and heard about his The story with Yun brocade and Hanfu.
The weaving method cannot be replaced by machines
In Internet parlance, “ceiling” refers to the peak of ability, which means that one is at the highest level among similar things and can hardly be surpassed. Wu Meicun, a poet of the Ming Dynasty, once described Nanjing brocade in this way: “The south of the Yangtze River is good, and the craftsmanship is amazing. The flowers and brocades are rotten, and the ice silkworms are spitting out phoenix mist and sold out. The new style is a small dragon.”
Nanjing Yunjin brocade has a history of more than 700 years. Among ancient silk fabrics in my country, Nanjing Yunjin brocade, Chengdu Shu brocade and Suzhou Song brocade are collectively known as the “three famous brocades in ancient China”, and Nanjing Yunjin brocade is the culmination of the brocade weaving craftsmanship of past dynasties. It is the first of the three famous brocades in ancient my country. When Jin Wen introduced Yun Brocade to reporters, his excited and frustrated tone showed full of pride: “Yun Brocade is called the ‘Crown of China’sSilk‘. It is my country’s ancient silk. It is the pinnacle of weaving craft culture and an intangible cultural heritage of mankind (only forty items have received this honor so far).”
Tianyancha data shows that in the textile industry and the textile and clothing and apparel industries, there are now 107 Yunjin-related companies in my country (the company name contains “Yunjin” or the business scope contains “Yunjin”, and the company status is active, continuing, or relocated. moving in, moving out). In terms of regional distribution, Jiangsu Province has the largest number of Yunjin-related companies, but there are only more than 30.
The history and unique weaving skills of Yun brocade play an important role in my country’s intangible cultural heritage projects. Jin Wen said that Yun brocade has two major highlights. First, Yun brocade is purely hand-woven, and the weaving method cannot be replaced by machines. From this point of view, Yun brocade is different from ordinary brocade that can be replaced by machines; second, Yun brocade is all The most gorgeous and high-end brocade among brocades, it is purely hand-woven using traditional jacquard wooden looms, weaving with flower-cut discs, and applying gold and color, forming unique techniques such as “Ku brocade”, “Ku satin” and “Zhuhua”, and weaving “Zhuhua” “Odd color” effect.
“Every inch of gold and every inch of brocade” demonstrates unique skills
The skills of purely hand-woven weaving are irreplaceable and also demonstrate the unique value of Yunjin brocade.
Unlike ordinary Hanfu, where the fabrics are stamped or the base fabric is selected and then various embroideries are performed on the fabric, the patterns of Hanfu made from Yunjin are woven into the brocade when weaving it. . “Yunjin brocade is known as ‘inch gold and inch brocade’, and its price is relatively expensive. In the past, Yunjin brocade was usually used to make the emperor’s dragon robes. Nowadays, clothing made of Yunjin brocade is rarely put out for sale, because one The price of clothes ranges from tens to hundreds of thousands of yuan. If other elements are added, the price may be higher, so clothes made with Yunjin are basically customized.” Although the production of Hanfu is not Jinwen’s specialty, He was also very emotional when talking about the combination of Hanfu and Yunjin, “Some people say that the tailoring of Western clothing is modern.Wen said in a previous interview with the media, “Our mission is to make it more and more popular among the people, rather than entering museums. Only if young people like this thing can Yun brocade be truly passed down.”
Like masters of bronze inscriptions, many inheritors of intangible cultural heritage techniques are replicating and restoring many classic works while also constantly exploring works with a more contemporary flavor. Whether it is Yun brocade works or other arts and crafts works, adhering to integrity, innovation, and advancing with the times are the inexhaustible driving force for their everlasting vitality.
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