Shangri-La Tibetan Textile Skills
Shangri-La City’s Tibetan costumes are rich and colorful and are known as the showcase of Tibetan costumes. Its origin, formation and development are closely related to the natural environment, climatic conditions, production and lifestyle of the Tibetan people for a long time, as well as its history and cultural development history. It has always reflected the collective wisdom and creativity of the Tibetan people.
Due to the different natural environments where Tibetans live in Shangri-La City and the different degrees of influence from surrounding ethnic groups, Tibetan costumes in various places have obvious local characteristics. The close exchanges with each other make the costumes of each ethnic group not only reflect the characteristics of their own ethnic group, but also bear the influence of other ethnic groups.
The large, small, Zhongdian and Nixi costumes in Shangri-La City are characterized by exquisiteness, beauty, generosity and simplicity. In Shangri-La Niru, Langdu, Dongwang, Wuking and other towns, locals still wear homemade Tibetan clothes.
Traditional Tibetan clothing is dominated by Tibetan robes. The main features of Tibetan robes are long sleeves, wide waist, large lapel, fat and no buttons. According to different regions, production and lifestyle, it can be divided into Tibetan robes in pastoral areas and Tibetan robes in agricultural areas. Tibetan robes in pastoral areas are mainly made of sheet leather robes that are not shameful due to the high altitude, strong wind and sand, and cold climate in the areas where they live. The clothes are fat and have wide cuffs. The raw material of Tibetan Pao in agricultural areas is mainly Pulu, which is characterized by low altitude, less wind and sand, and warm climate in the area where they live. Whether in pastoral or agricultural areas, according to gender, Tibetan robes can be divided into men’s Tibetan robes and women’s Tibetan robes, and both are large-breasted robes.
In pastoral areas, men’s Tibetan robes are inlaid with 10 to 50 cm wide black velveteen, corduroy or wool on the lapels, cuffs and bottom edges of Banpi robes; women’s Tibetan robes are inlaid with 5 cm wide edges on the outside of Banpi robes. The colorful “bangdian” materials are used, and then 3 to 10 4 cm wide patterns are made in red, blue, green and other colors, and the sleeves are also decorated with patterns.
In rural areas, men’s Tibetan robes are made of black or white Pulu, with the collar, cuffs, placket and bottom edge trimmed with colored cloth and silk; women’s Tibetan robes are made of Pulu, wool or woolen . Tibetan women’s clothing varies from place to place. In river valley areas, women mostly wear dress-style clothing. In other areas, long-sleeved women’s Tibetan robes and large-breasted short waistcoats are popular. In recent years, chic and elegant modern women’s Tibetan clothing has appeared in cities and towns.
Tibetans believe that color is the soul of Tibetan robe decoration. During the sewing process of Tibetan robes, great attention is paid to the matching and use of colors, highlighting the contrast and harmony between color blocks and the whole. Border decorations are mostly made of red, yellow, blue, green, white, black and other colors. Each color has its own symbolic meaning.
The clothing of Tibetan men in Shangri-La City is basically the same. Pay attention to overlapping layers and eye-catching colors of clothing. Wear cotton or white cocoon silk and brocade-embedded waist-length short shirts on the inside. Wear “chuba” made of cloth, woolen, Pulu, silk, etc. on the outside. Wear white Tibetan silk crotchless on the bottom. Trousers, silver knives, large wallets and other accessories, a gold-brimmed hat, a top hat or a fox fur hat, and Urula boots, long boots or gold velvet Tibetan boots.
Before the founding of the People’s Republic of China, the braids of men in the Zhongdian and the Qing Dynasty were similar to those of men in the Qing Dynasty. They had braids in the center of their heads and shaved heads around them. Nixi, Dongwang, and Geza wore long braids and did not shave their heads all around. Young men’s braids are tied with colorful headbands, ivory rings and jade rings. Hats include felt hats, fox fur hats and gold-rimmed hats. Men’s clothing is generally divided into “Legui” (labor clothing), “Zhugui” (dress), and “Zhagui” (warrior uniform).
Many towns and villages in Shangri-La City still maintain the traditional production and lifestyle of men farming and women weaving. Especially in Dongwang Township, Gezanlangdu and Luojiniru, all women can knit and weave. There is a local saying that “a woman who cannot weave is not a woman”. Every household still maintains the traditional Tibetan folk textile handicrafts.
The raw materials for making Tibetan clothing are mainly hand-woven Pulu. The clothing textile technology includes the traditional plain “cross” cross weaving method and the twill “herringbone” weaving method. In the weaving, the color matching is mainly based on five colors. The five colors of blue, white, red, green and yellow respectively symbolize blue sky, white clouds, flames, green water and earth. The deeper meaning is that the five colors respectively represent wood, metal, fire, The five elements of water and earth. Women use textiles to vividly express the long-standing Five Elements culture in their clothing. Clothing fabrics include ponchos, belts, leggings, etc. The varieties are rich and diverse and are very popular among people. Pupun production is almost everywhere in agricultural and pastoral areas, especially the pud produced in Niru Tibetan Village of Luoji Township and Dongwang Township are the most famous.
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