The “Waste Textile Recycling Resource Value Accounting” project is about to be launched
On April 21, 2023, the Social Responsibility Office of the China Textile Industry Federation (hereinafter referred to as the “China Textile Federation Responsible Office”) held a “Waste TextilesRecycling Resource Value Accounting” project launch preparatory meeting. In accordance with the instructions of the Consumer Goods Department of the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology, the “Waste Textile Recycling Resource Value Accounting” project will be launched in April 2023, and a preparatory meeting will be launched on the eve of April 22 (World Earth Day). The project aims to implement the spirit of the 20th National Congress of the Communist Party of China and the Central Economic Work Conference, implement the work deployment of the “Implementation Opinions on Accelerating the Recycling of Waste Textiles”, promote the green and low-carbon development of my country’s textile and garment industry, further accelerate the recycling of waste textiles, and enhance Textile and apparel international market competitiveness.
Experts who came to provide guidance include:
Professor Yang Jianxin, Center for Ecological Environment Research, Chinese Academy of Sciences
Wang Huaping, researcher at the School of Materials Science and Engineering, Donghua University
Zhao Guoliang, Professor, School of Materials Design and Engineering, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology
Gong Xianzheng, researcher at the School of Materials Science and Engineering, Beijing University of Technology
Wang Jingwei, Professor, School of Urban Construction and Environmental Engineering, Shanghai Second Polytechnic University
Tian Jinping, researcher at the School of Environment, Tsinghua University
Wang Yutao, Professor, Department of Environmental Science and Engineering, Fudan University
Song Xiaolong, researcher at the School of Urban Construction and Environmental Engineering, Shanghai Second Polytechnic University
Contents of the project preparatory meeting
With the development of science and technology, the manufacturing level of mechanical equipment (such as cutting machines, openers, etc.) supporting the recycling and reuse of waste textiles is constantly improving, and the types of waste textiles that can be recycled and reused are also increasing. Data show that in 2021, global waste textile recycling volume reached 21.65 million tons, a year-on-year increase of 6.13%.
As the world’s largest consumer and producer of textiles and clothing, China consumes a large amount of textile raw materials and also produces a large amount of waste textiles every year. In recent years, the amount of waste textile recycling in my country has continued to grow. By 2021, the industry’s recycling volume will be approximately 5 million tons, an increase of approximately 400,000 tons compared with 2020.
In 2021, my country’s waste textile utilization will increase from 2.852 million tons in 2016 to 4.565 million tons, with an average annual compound growth rate of 9.86% during the period.
One of the main goals of the “Guiding Opinions on Green Development of the Textile Industry during the 14th Five-Year Plan”: to significantly improve the level of resource utilization. The waste textile recycling system has been further improved, and the annual processing volume of recycled fiber accounts for 15% of the total fiber processing volume. At the same time, one of the key tasks is clarified: strengthening the comprehensive utilization of resources and continuing to promote circular development – strengthening standardized management of the industry. Research and formulate standards and regulations in the field of waste textile recycling, establish industry encouragement and restraint mechanisms, and promote the standardized development of the industry. Accelerate the implementation of the extended producer responsibility system and explore traceability paths for the entire life cycle of recycled products. Conduct in-depth research on accounting methods and evaluation indicators for the value of waste textile resources, and gradually build a market mechanism to support the ecological value of recycled textiles.
In April 2022, China’s National Development and Reform Commission, Ministry of Commerce, and Ministry of Industry and Information Technology jointly issued the “Implementation Opinions on Accelerating the Recycling of Waste Textiles” and proposed: Strengthening the social responsibility of textile producers. Guide relevant institutions and enterprises to study and formulate waste textile recycling goals and roadmaps, and actively promote the recycling of waste textiles. Support relevant institutions and enterprises to study the value accounting methods and evaluation indicators of waste textile resources, and gradually build a market mechanism to support the ecological value of recycled textiles.
The Social Responsibility Office of the China Textile and Apparel Industry Federation officially launched the sustainable textiles “Full Life Cycle Assessment” project in May 2020, and joined a group of leading enterprises in the Chinese textile and apparel industry to carry out product life cycle assessment work. In order to promote climate innovation actions in the industry and increase the advancement of life cycle assessment projects, the China Textile and Apparel Industry Life Cycle Assessment Working Group was launched and established in December 2020, aiming to guide the industry in carrying out life cycle assessment of textile products and product Environmental information disclosure work. As of February 2023, the products evaluated by the working group involve 27 brands, 71 individual products, 129 manufacturers and 11 types of raw materials. On this basis, in accordance with the requirements of the Consumer Goods Department of the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology, the waste textile recycling resource value accounting research project focuses on four major project goals, which are mainly divided into waste textile resource value empowerment, evaluation system and accounting system construction, There are four directions: summary of achievement progress and display of typical cases, and exploration of ecological value market mechanism.
Hu Kehua, deputy director of the Social Responsibility Office of the China National Textile and Apparel Industry Federation and director of the Sustainable Innovation Project, chaired the meeting and introduced the project background and research objectives, shared relevant policies and market trends for waste textiles, and expressed his views on “Fashion Circular Innovation 2030” project progress, and introduced the ongoing Chinese textile circular innovation research project.
Sun Lirong, the sustainable development researcher of the China Textile Federation, reported on the project plan.The implementation plan, reporting framework and time plan are introduced. Experts attach great importance to the focus, ecological value and resource value of waste textiles and recycled textiles. The subsequent seminar conducted a preliminary discussion on the direction of industry-university-research cooperation. The participating experts gave high praise and affirmation to the value of this project. At the same time, The next phase of the project points towards optimization.
Expert advice (in order of speaking)
Yang Jianxin, a professor at the Ecological Environment Research Center of the Chinese Academy of Sciences, believes that waste textiles and recycled textiles are two different directions and are difficult to integrate directly. He believes that we should focus on how to improve the recycling rate of waste textiles in China; the evaluation system can try to consider economic, environmental, and Assess the four value dimensions of society and resources, and combine the different technical routes of resource recovery and energy recovery. Xtep needs to pay attention to the technical differences between natural fiber and man-made fiber recycling. When driven by market mechanisms, it needs to focus on value-oriented reversal. It can be found in the resource value Discuss textiles on the basis of accounting and carry out value-oriented research.
Zhao Guoliang, a professor at the School of Materials Design and Engineering of Beijing Institute of Technology, believes that waste textiles and recycled textiles are not the same field, and needs to focus on waste textiles. He also suggests that attaching great importance to pre-project literature research and industry research will help clarify the resource utilization of waste textiles. Utilized technical paths, material flows, energy flows, etc.; recycled textiles are currently limited by technical issues, and the proportion of raw materials coming from waste textiles is low. From the perspective of promoting the utilization of waste resources in the industry, the focus should be on the use of waste textiles Recycling, and taking the recycling rate into consideration.
Professor Wang Huaping of the School of Materials Science and Engineering of Donghua University proposed that while focusing on waste textiles, primary regeneration can be the main method to encourage high-quality regeneration and recycling. At the same time, attention should be paid to the residues of dye additives and their use in recycling processes. pollution problems; in addition, research on the waste textile industry chain often focuses on both the source and the end point, while ignoring the circulation and processing in the middle. When sorting out typical technologies and cases and selecting the main influencing factors, it is necessary to consider all links, equipment, The different changes brought about by technology, etc. are diversified from the perspectives of resource attributes, ecological attributes and environmental attributes.
Professor Wang Yutao of the Department of Environmental Science and Engineering at Fudan University emphasized the need to consider the applicability of the project results. First, to better face the risks of international trade, which can be achieved from the reduction of harmful substance emissions, minimization of resource consumption and The ecological efficiency of waste textiles should be considered from the perspective of maximizing social and economic benefits. The second is to help enterprises optimize and improve their products. By clarifying system boundaries and baselines, the ecological and environmental value of reduced pollutants can be calculated to help enterprises better to compare the results.
Professor Wang Jingwei from the School of Urban Construction and Environmental Engineering of Shanghai Second Polytechnic University pointed out that the current research content is relatively broad and far exceeds the scope of resource value accounting. It is a long-term work that needs to be continuously deepened and improved. Professor Wang put forward suggested direction projects based on his experience in recycling automobile and power battery waste. He classified them according to the source of raw materials and production and manufacturing places, clarified the waste textile disposal process and production and manufacturing process, and at the same time corresponded to foreign standards and forms, and actively improved China’s International carbon voice.
Gong Xianzheng, a researcher at the School of Materials Science and Engineering at Beijing University of Technology, believes that differentiated accounting should be carried out for different types of waste textiles (natural fibers, synthetic fibers, etc.), different comprehensive evaluation indicators should be formulated, and different recycling application scenarios (resource utilization and energy utilization) require certain distinction and synthesis when setting up the evaluation index system and accounting.
Based on the controversial issue of defining waste textiles and recycled textiles, Tian Jinping, a researcher at the School of Environment at Tsinghua University, proposed a solution to design an overall navigation map. He suggested covering the input of raw materials, entering the cycle, production process, and industry from a full life cycle perspective. chain, etc., and identify the relevant parties (government, industry, public, etc.) in recycling, and clarify the progress and utilization of each stage. At the same time, it is proposed that the design of evaluation indicators can refer to the PSR evaluation model, such as what are the driving forces of different stakeholders and how to respond.
Song Xiaolong, a researcher at the School of Urban Construction and Environmental Engineering of Shanghai Second Polytechnic University, proposed that the entry points for waste textiles and recycled textiles are different, as are the proposing institutions and application orientations of the evaluation systems. It is necessary to determine whether the indicator system is burned waste textiles or recycled textiles, and then To advance follow-up questions, we need to pay attention to the differences in ecological value and resource value.
After the project is launched, the responsible office of China Textile Federation will jointly conduct research and analysis with domestic and foreign brands, textile recycling material manufacturers, recycling sorters, etc., as well as various professional institutions that mainly carry out waste textile recycling practices. , and actively build a communication platform to brainstorm ideas, and strive to complete the expected results of the project by the end of 2023, creating more opportunities to promote textile recycling innovation.
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