A must-read for textile people: teach you how to verify a good piece of fabric
Different types of cloth are divided into four categories: single rolls exceeding a specified score should be classified as second-class. If the average score for the entire lot exceeds the specified score level, the lot shall be deemed to have failed inspection.
Calculation of ratings
Calculation formula
In principle, after each roll of fabric is inspected, the scores obtained can be added up. Then the grade is evaluated according to the acceptance level. However, since different cloth envelopes require different acceptance levels, if the following formula is used to calculate the score of each roll of cloth per 100 square yards, it only needs to formulate a score per 100 square yards. The specified score under the code can be used to evaluate the grade of different cloth seals.
(Total Score
part 1 woven cloth type cloth type single roll whole batch
1. All artificial fabrics, polyester/nylon/acetate products, shirt clothing, spun artificial fiber fabrics, worsted wool, 20 points/100 square yards, 16 points/100 square yards;
2. Denim, canvas, poplin/Oxford stripes or checkered cotton, shirts, woven man-made fiber fabrics, woolen fabrics, striped or plaid patterned fabrics/dyed indigo yarn, all special fabrics, jacquard fabrics/more Than corduroy/velvet/stretch denim/man-made cloth/blended chemical fiber fabric 28 points/100 square yards 20 points/100 square yards;
3. Linen thin muslin 40 points/100 square yards 32 points/100 square yards;
4. Doppioni silk/light silk 50 points/100 square yards 40 points/100 square yards;
part 2 knitted fabric cloth type cloth type single roll whole batch
1. All artificial fabrics, polyester/nylon/acetate fiber products, rayon, worsted wool, blended chemical fiber fabrics, silk 20 points/100 square yards, 16 points/100 square yards;
2. Fully professional fabrics, jacquard fabrics/dobby corduroy spun man-made fiber fabrics, woolen fabrics dyed indigo yarn velvet/spandex 25 points/100 square yards 20 points/100 square yards;
3. Basic knitted fabric (combed cotton/blended chemical fiber fabric cotton) 30 points/100 square yards 25 points/100 square yards;
4. Basic knitted fabric (cotton cloth carded by carding machine) 40 points/100 square yards 32 points/100 square yards;
rt 3 Sampling Procedure
The selection of papers to be inspected is completely random. Fabric factories are required to present the goods packing list to the inspector when at least 80% of the rolls in a batch of cloth have been packed. The inspector will select the rolls to be inspected. Once the inspector selects the rolls to be inspected, no adjustments may be made to the number of rolls to be inspected or the number of rolls that have been selected for inspection. During inspection, no yardage of fabric shall be taken from any roll except for recording and checking colors. All rolls of fabric that are inspected are graded and defect scores are assessed.
Part 4 Repeated Faults
1. Any repeated and/or recurring defects will constitute repeated defects. Repeated defects in each yard of cloth must be penalized with four points.
2. Regardless of the defect score, any roll with more than ten yards of fabric containing repeated defects shall be deemed unqualified.
part 5 full effective width defects
3. Rolls containing more than full-width defects per 100 square yards shall not be rated as first-class products.
4. Rolls containing more than one major defect per 10 linear yards will be deemed unqualified, regardless of how many defects are contained in 100 yards.
5. Rolls containing a major defect in the first three digits or the last three digits shall be deemed unqualified. Major defects will be considered as three or four point defects.
6. If the cloth has obvious loose or tight threads on one selvedge, or if there are ripples, wrinkles, creases or creases on the main body of the cloth, these conditions will cause it to be unrolled in the usual way. When the cloth is not flat, such a roll cannot be rated as first-class.
part 6 cloth width
7. When inspecting a roll of cloth, check its width at least three times at the beginning, middle, and end. If the width of a roll of cloth is close to the specified minimum width or the width of the cloth is uneven, then the number of inspections of the width of the roll must be increased.
8. If the roll width is less than the specified minimum purchase width, the rollwill be deemed unqualified.
9. For woven fabrics, if the width is 1 inch wider than the specified purchase width, the roll will be deemed unqualified. However, for elastic woven fabrics, even if they are 2 inches wider than the specified width, they can still be qualified. For knitted fabrics, if the width is 2 inches wider than the specified purchase width, the roll will be deemed unqualified. However, for stretch knitted fabrics, even if they are 3 inches wider than the specified width, they can still be qualified.
10. The overall width of a piece of cloth refers to the distance from the outer selvedge at one end to the outer selvage at the other end. The width of the fabric that can be cut refers to the width measured by removing the selvage and/or pinholes of the setting machine, and the undyed, unprinted, uncoated or other untreated surface parts of the main body of the fabric.
part 7 color difference evaluation
11. The color difference between rolls and rolls and batches should not be lower than four levels in the AATCC gray scale.
12. During the cloth inspection process, take a 6-inch-10-inch wide color difference cloth board from each roll. The inspector will use these cloth skins to compare the color differences within the same roll or different rolls. color difference between.
13. The color difference from edge to edge, edge to middle or cloth end to cloth tail within the same roll shall not be lower than level four in the AATCC gray scale. For each roll inspected, four points will be awarded for each yard of fabric showing such color difference defects.
14. If the fabric under inspection does not match the approved sample provided in advance, the color difference must be lower than 4-5 levels in the gray scale, otherwise the batch of goods will be deemed unqualified .
part 8 roll length
15. If the actual length of the roll deviates by more than 2% from the length indicated on the label, the roll will be deemed unqualified. Rolls with roll length deviations will no longer be evaluated for defect scores, but must be noted on the inspection report.
16. If the total length of all random inspection samples deviates from the length indicated on the label by 1% or more, the entire batch of goods will be deemed unqualified.
part 9 joint part
17. For woven fabrics, the entire roll of cloth can be connected from multiple parts. Unless otherwise specified in the purchase contract, if a roll of cloth contains a length of less than 40 yards, For the jointed portion, the roll will be graded as failed. For knitted fabrics, the entire roll may be made from multiple joined sections. Unless otherwise specified in the purchase contract, a roll will be deemed unqualified if it contains a joined section weighing less than 30 pounds. qualified.
part 10 bow and weft
18. For woven and knitted fabrics, all printed or striped fabrics with more than 2% bow weft and bias fold; and all wick fabrics with more than 3% skew. It cannot be classified as first-class.
part 11 skew
19. For woven fabrics, all printed and striped fabrics with a skew greater than 2%, and all rolls of wick fabrics with a skew greater than 3% cannot be rated as first class. Taste.
20. For knitted fabrics, all wick fabrics and printed fabrics with a skew greater than 5% cannot be classified as first-class products.
part 12 cloth smell
21. All rolls that smell bad will fail the inspection. Hole:
22. Defects that cause damage to the cloth, regardless of the size of the damage, should be rated 4 points. A hole should contain two or more broken yarns.
part 13 feel
23. Test the feel of the cloth by comparing it with the reference sample. If there is an obvious difference, the roll will be classified as second-class, with a score of 4 points per yard. If the feel of all rolls does not reach the level of the reference sample, the inspection will be suspended and the score will not be assessed temporarily.
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