24. What are the style characteristics of various varieties of cotton plain weave fabrics?
Answer: (1) Plain cloth: According to the different characteristics of the yarn used, it can be divided into fine plain cloth, medium plain cloth and coarse plain cloth. The characteristics of this type of fabric are that the cloth surface is flat, clean, uniform and full. Fine plain cloth is light, smooth, clean, flexible to the touch, rich in the natural luster of cotton fiber, and has less impurities on the cloth surface. Coarse cloth has a rough texture, thick body, and is strong and durable. Medium plain cloth is somewhere in between. Others are fine fabrics, which are higher-end imitation silk varieties and require light, thin and smooth texture. (2) Poplin: The appearance of the fabric is fine, the warp and weft are arranged neatly, the spinning lines are even, the cloth surface is clean and even, the particles are clear and full, and the warp yarns on the surface of the fabric are raised to form full diamond-shaped particles, which are the characteristics of poplin fabric. It feels soft and smooth, with a silky feel. The warp and weft tightness of yarn-dyed poplin can be lower than that of primary-colored poplin, and its appearance style pays more attention to fineness, cleanness, smoothness, and thinness. The flowers are fresh and delicate. (3) Merle yarn and voile yarn: both are light and thin plain weave fabrics. The specific difference is that the warp and weft of Merle yarn usually use carded yarn, and adopt the same twist coefficient as ordinary yarns. The special number of the yarn used is generally 10.5~14 .Between 5tex. The warp and weft of voile yarn are mostly combed yarn or stranded yarn, and the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is higher than that of ordinary yarn, that is, high twist or strong twist, so as to achieve the characteristics of clear holes, good breathability and refreshing hand feel. , the linear density of warp and weft spinning yarn is generally below 10.5tex. Merle yarn and voile yarn have the characteristics of light texture, smooth feel, transparent appearance and good breathability, which are very suitable for summer clothing. Compared with voile yarn, mer yarn has a slightly softer body, and its wear resistance and air permeability are worse than those of voile yarn. There are two kinds of fabrics: original color woven and dyed woven. (4) Linen yarn: It adopts a plain weave structure. The surface of the fabric shows lines of different widths and widths. The lines are prominent and straight. The warp and weft yarns have uniform tension and the cloth surface is clean. It is a thin, thin, high-twist, low-density fabric. The warp twist is about 10% higher than that of ordinary yarn, but the weft twist is lower than that of ordinary yarn. Therefore, although its warp and weft density is smaller, it still has a crisp, smooth, light and cool style. (5) Burnt-out fabric: It is woven with core-spun yarn and uses the different chemical properties of the fibers of two blended chemical fiber fabrics to dissolve one fiber to form a patterned fabric. Core-spun yarn is usually made of polyester filament as the core yarn and wrapped with cotton fiber. There are also polyester and viscose core-spun yarns available. After the natural cotton cloth is woven, during the printing and dyeing process, an agent that can corrode the cotton (viscous) fiber is printed on the pattern part according to the designed pattern, and is baked or steamed at high temperature to carbonize and remove the cotton fiber. , the remaining part is the polyester filament part, which is transparent and crystal-like like a mesh. The parts that have not been rotted (that is, the parts that have not been coated with chemicals) have a raised pattern. Burnt-out cloth has a transparent, concave and convex pattern, the burnt-out parts are similar to mesh, and the convex parts covered with cotton are like burnt-out velvet. For this reason, it has the characteristics of novel pattern, strong sense of body, lightness and transparency, clear outline, and smooth feel. . It would be more beautiful if printed embellishments are used in non-burnout areas. (6) Crepe fabric: It is a kind of thick plain weave fabric, which is transplanted from silk crepe fabric. The crepe is made of strongly twisted weft yarn (the warp yarn adopts normal twist). There are primary color weaving and dyed weaving. The surface of the fabric is finely wrinkled, soft and soft to the touch, and comfortable to wear. (7) Down fabric: It is a kind of fine, high-density fabric with very high tightness and close tightness in the warp and weft directions. It is mainly used for the fabric of down jackets. Down fabric can prevent down from drilling out. The fabric has a flat surface, a firm texture, and a smooth feel. In addition to being down-proof, it also has water-repellent and anti-shrink functions. (8) Seersucker: It is composed of two systems of warp yarns (ground warp yarns and bubble warp yarns) and one system of weft yarns. The ground warp and weft yarns are woven into a flat ground cloth, and the bubble warp and weft yarns are woven into bubbles. Because the foam yarn density is higher than that of the ground warp yarn, and the warp let-off is fast (the foam warp yarn and the ground warp yarn are wound on two weaving beams respectively during weaving), the weaving shrinkage difference between the foam warp yarn and the ground warp yarn is large, resulting in regular strip-shaped wavy crepe. Pattern, shaped like bubbles. Most of the yarn-dyed seersuckers are plain weave, and some are embellished with joint weave or small jacquard weave on the plain weave, with beautiful shapes and bright colors. Seersucker fabric has soft texture and strong standing feeling. The shape of the bubbles is clear and neat, the bubble shape is stable, and it is durable and washable.
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