25. What are the style characteristics of various varieties of cotton twill fabrics?
Answer: The appearance of twill fabric is characterized by obvious twill lines on the surface of the fabric. The uniform and straight texture is a common style of twill fabric. Even means that the twill lines should be equidistant, and straight means that the twill strips should be straight, that is, the floating lengths of the twill yarns should be equal. (1) Twill fabric: 2/1 twill weave is adopted. The twill lines are more obvious on the front of the fabric and less obvious on the back. The texture is tighter and thicker than the plain weave fabric, and the hand feel is softer. Different types of spinning yarns are used, and there are three types of yarn twill fabrics, half-line twill fabrics and full-line twill fabrics. And due to the different yarn characteristics, it can be divided into two types: coarse twill and fine twill fabrics. (2) Serge, gabardine, khaki: these types of products are available in yarn woven, half-thread woven and full-thread woven. Serge and gabardine use 2/2 twill weave, while yarn khaki generally uses 3/1 left twill weave, half line khaki and full line khaki mostly use 2/2 right twill weave, and line khaki also uses 3/1 right twill weave. . The difference between serge, gabardine and khaki mainly lies in the different tightness of the fabrics in the warp and weft directions and the different tightness ratios in the warp and weft directions. Among them, the warp and weft tightness and tightness ratio of serge are small. Therefore, the fabric is relatively soft, the intersection points of warp and weft yarns on the cloth surface are clear, and the grain is wide and flat. The warp and weft tightness and tightness ratio of gabardine are both greater than that of serge, and the warp and weft tightness of gabardine is about 1 times greater than the weft tightness. Therefore, the cloth body is stiffer, the texture is thick but not hard, and it is wear-resistant and not stiff. When broken, the spacing between the grain lines on the cloth surface is small, the diagonal lines are raised, and the peaks and valleys are more obvious. The latitude and longitude tightness and tightness ratio of khaki are large. Therefore, the cloth body is thick, tight and stiff, with fine lines. The twill lines are more obvious than gabardine, and the texture is solid and durable. The high-end products among them are usually made of fine combed strands and finished with water-repellent and anti-shrinkage. In addition to double-sided twill khaki (2/2 right bias), khaki fabrics also include herringbone khaki (mountain-shaped broken twill), satin khaki (also known as Crodine, a sharp twill weave) (serge, gabardine, khaki tightness See appendix for values).
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